The Red-headed Parrot Finch is a very beautiful grassfinch.
They are not real common in captivity but are not difficult to keep and
breed. They do not do well as a caged pet however, but thrive wonderfully
in an aviary. In the aviary they are very active, agile flyers and friendly
with lots of other kinds of birds.
In the wild they live in grass and brush lands, as well
as abandoned plantations. They eat grass seed they find on the ground
as well as climbing the grass stocks and eating the seed still at the
top. They also eat bugs and insects. This grassy environment provides
a large portion of their needs from food and cover, to bedding materials
for their nests.
Scientific name: Erythrura
psittacea
Learn more about the Red-headed Parrot 'Family', the
Estrildidae Finches here in
Finch
Families
Description:
Red-headed Parrot Finches reach a size of 4.5" (12 cm).
Their bodies are a bright glossy green and they have a bright red head,
throat, and upper breast. The bill is black, and the legs and feet are
gray.
The female is similar to the male, though they sometimes
have more muted coloring and the red on the face is smaller and lighter
than on the male.
Juveniles are dull green in color and have a dull red tail.
Some may have red on their face, but the amount of red varies with each
individual. Their full color is achieved at about four months of age.
Distribution:
Red-headed Parrot Finches are native to the Pacific Island,
New Caledonia.
Care and Feeding:
Fresh food and water must be provided daily. A good
finch seed mix will provide their everyday need of grass
seeds and millets and is readily available at a pet store. They are much
more a vegetarian than most of the parrot finches and should also be offered greens, green seeds, fruits, millet, chickweed,
and even oats. They will also need proteins such as scalded mealworms, enchytraeids, ant pupae, and egg food.
Finch treats of seed with honey, fruits and vegetables are
fun for your bird too, as well as nutritious!
Grit with charcoal is essential
to aid in digestion and it contains valuable minerals and trace elements.
Grit should be provided in a special cup or sprinkled over the bottom
of the cage floor. Provide a cuttlebone because the calcium it provides
will give your bird a firm beak, strong eggshells when breeding, and will
prevent egg binding. The lime in the cuttlebone also aids in digestion.
Provide you finch with an occasional bath.
A bath dish that is 1" deep with a 1/2" of water, or a clip
on bath house work well.
Their nails will occasionally need
to be trimmed, but be careful never to clip into the vein as the bird
can quickly bleed to death. Bird nail trimmers and styptic powder
to stop the bleeding are available at pet shops.
Housing:
Red-headed Parrot Finches do very well in aviaries
or bird rooms. The screening should be 3/8" square
mesh. Dishes for food, water, grit and bathing water must be provided
along with perches and nests. They cannot take extreme cold, so a minimum
temperature of 65°F (18°C) would be the least they can tolerate
(68°F (20°C) when they are breeding).
Being quite active, they need lots of open space to fly. In their
native environment grasslands and shrubbery are the norm, so they will
appreciate corners with thickly planted shrubs. Plants that are not poisonous,
such as fruit trees, privet, forsythia, and honeysuckle bushes will make
the space more enjoyable for the finches.
Maintenance:
Although finches require very little time, a clean environment
as well as fresh food and water daily is a must to prevent disease and
illness. The basic cage care includes daily
cleaning of the water and food dishes. Weekly wash and dry all other accessories
in the aviary, including the perches.
Social Behaviors:
Red-headed Parrot Finches live naturally in groups when not
breeding. They are very social. They become
very friendly with many different kinds of birds and the aviary life suites
them perfectly.
Handling/Training:
Finches are simply enjoyed for their antics and play rather
than training. When you need to handle your finch to examine it or clip
it's nails, place your palm on it's back and wrap your fingers around
the bird with your thumb and forefinger on either side of it's head. Finches
rarely bite, and even if they do, they do not have a harmful or dangerous
bite.
Activities:
Red-headed Parrot Finches are active,
flittering around and twittering most of the day with a few short quiet
periods.
Breeding/Reproduction:
Red-headed Parrot Finches if fed a good diet are not difficult
to breed, but do not do well in cages. They are best bred in an aviary.
It is difficult to pick out pairs so breeding in small colonies works
best.
In the wild they nest in holes in rocks, trees, bushes and
even in the recesses and beams of buildings. They like on enclosed or
semi-open nesting box. Nesting materials can include dry leaves, grass
stalks, and coconut fibers but they like long fibers best.
The female will lay a clutch of 4 to 6 eggs. The male and
female will both help build the nest and incubate the eggs and they will
hatch in about 14 days. The parents will feed the young proteins rather
than vegetable foods, so offer ant pupae, egg food, and mealworms.
The young leave the nest about 21 days after they hatch and in
another two weeks will be on their own. Banding finches is generally done
on the 12th day.
Potential Problems:
Red-headed Parrot Finches are hardy birds and almost all
illnesses can be traced to improper diet, dirty environment, and drafts.
They are also susceptible to cold, and should be kept at temperatures
above 65°F (18°C). A balanced diet and plenty of exercise will
prevent most illnesses. Know your birds and watch for real drastic changes
as indications of illness.
Some signs of illness to be aware
of are droppings that are not black and white, feathers that are ruffled,
lack of appetite, wheezing, and acting feeble and run down.
Some of the common illnesses and injuries your finch could contract are broken wings or legs, cuts and open wounds,
overgrown beaks and nails, ingrown feathers, feather picking, confinement
cramps in the legs from a cage that is too small, weight loss, heat stroke,
shock, concussion, egg binding, diarrhea, mites, colds, baldness, scaly
legs, sore eyes, tumors, constipation, and diarrhea.
First you can try and isolate the bird in a hospital cage
where you cover all but the front of the cage and add a light bulb or
heating pad to keep the interior of the cage at a constant temperature
of 85° F. Remove all perches and put food and water dishes on the
floor. If you don't see improvements within a few hours, take the bird
to an avian veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment.
Availability:
Red-headed Parrot Finches are not very common or often available
and are rather costly.